If your trying to remove the screws in your stock Honda Ruckus controls this special tool helps with the stuck screws. I also posted the PassworJDM part I used in the video. They look way better then the stock Honda Ruckus handle bars. If your going to use the stock Honda Ruckus controls. Order the 7/8″ stem and handle bars.

Lisle 29200 3/8″ Hand Impact Tool Set

Stem 22.2mm

Handlebars (7/8″) 22.2mm

Stem 25.4mm (1″) Looks like there’s a typo in Amazon. Should be 25.4mm instead or 24.5mm.

Handle Bars (1″) 25.4mm

It’s going down in Ridgeland, SC on Friday February 25, 2012 from 1-5pm. The address is 7622 W. Main St. at D&R Auto.

If you have any questions contact me or Justin through the forums.  Hope to see you guys out there!

On to the review though. This product came highly recommended to me from several friends, including my brother (and mechanic). The cool thing is, of all the clutches I’ve had, this one grabs the hardest while still retaining a stock feel. The even cooler thing is that this kit has Centerforce’s centrifugal weight system. The pressure plate is weighted so that the faster it spins, he harder the clutch grabs. Period. For that reason alone, I would recommend this type of clutch to anyone. I’ve really enjoyed having this clutch. It is paired to an ACT Prolite flywheel (which I will do a separate review on).

I’ve only been running this setup for about 15k miles so far, and I beat the ever loving hell out of it. Still engages crisp and clean every time no matter what I’m getting into. I will say that the break in period was a headache, but it always is with any clutch. I think I had to fine tune pedal position 3 times before it finally settled in for good, but now it’s golden.

Brenton Wright-2012

Product Description
The Ingersoll Rand 1/2in. Titanium air impact wrench sets the standard for performance with the best power-to-weight ratio on the market in its class. It raises the bar with 780 ft.-lbs. of torque with a tool that weighs only 3.95 lbs. Features enhanced controls for even greater comfort and convenience. U.S.A. Drive (in.): 1/2, Speed – No Load (RPM): 9,800, Average Air Consumption (CFM): 5, Working Torque (ft.-lb.): 50 – 550, Forward Torque (ft.-lbs.): 550, Max. Torque (ft.-lbs.): 780, Nut Busting Torque (ft.-lbs.): 1,100, Max. Reverse Torque (ft.-lbs.): 780, Impacts Per Minute (IPM): 1,250, Variable Speed: Yes, Reversible: Yes, Inlet Size (in.): 1/4, Min. Hose Size (in.): 3/8, Noise Level (dB): 109, Tool Weight (lbs.): 3.95, Tool Length (in.): 7 3/8

1. Raise and support front of vehicle.
2. Disconnect the exhuast pipe for auxiliary heater from front engine undershield (if fitted).
3. Remove:
Lower splash guard.
Air cleaner cover.
Air intake pipe between front panel and air cleaner.
Left hand engine cover.
Front bumper.
Front panel bolts.
4. Install support guides No. 3369 through holes in panel.
5. Remove front panel bolts.
6. Slide the front panel forward into service position.
7. Install the upper rear bolts into the rear holes to steady panel.
8. Remove
Front engine cover.
9. Turn the accessory drive belt tensioner clockwise, using tool No. 3299
10. Remove the accessory drive belt.
NOTE: If the accessory drive belt is to be re-used, mark direction of rotation with chalk to ensure correct installation.
11. Remove:
Accessory drive belt tensioner.
Power steering pump pulley. Use tool No 3212.
Crankshaft pulley bolts.
Crankshaft pulley
NOTE: Thrust washer is only fitted to crankshaft sprocket with part No. 06C 105 063 A.
12. Remove:
Timing belt covers.
Rear engine cover.
13. Move the coolant expansion tank to one side.
DO NOT disconnect hoses.
14. Remove:
Air cleaner housing and hoses.
Dipstick and tube.
Secondary air hose from right hand cylinder head.
Ignition coils.
Both rear crankcase breather hoses.
Both cylinder head covers.
15. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the camshafts (CA1 & CA2) are pointing upwards at No. 3 cylinder using tool No. T400030

Here’s one of the special tools you’ll need when doing the timing belt on your Audi.

Here’s the other kit with the locking pin.

1: Make sure you let the engine cool over night. You don’t want to burn yourself.
2: Pop Hood and place in the service postion. There are locks on both hood hinges. Start with the drivers side lock then the passengers side. Side video on how to do this.
3: Remove cover on face end of the engine. It’s the cover in front of the air box. Pull up then forward.
4: Remove Air Filter Housing. First remove intake tubes. Grab and slide forward. Grab both ends of the Air Filter Housing and pull straight up. 4 mounts.
5: Remove Ignition Coils with T30 socket. One T30 per coil.
6: Remove Mercedes spark plug wires with special tool. Link below.
7: Remove Mercedes spark plugs. Install new Mercedes spark plugs and tighten to 25 nm (newton meters).
8: Remove Mercedes spark plug wires from the coil. Make sure you install the spark plug wire that is labeled the same as the one you took off.
9: Install everything else in reverse order.

Here’s the special tool I used in the video. It helps pull the spark plug wires off the Mercedes spark plugs. It also helps install the wires back on to the

Mercedes spark plugs

when done. This tool works awesome and I would not try to do the job without it.

Here are the spark plug wires I recommend. The are almost half off right now. $226.12. Advance Auto Parts has them for over $400. So save yourself $200.

These are the spark plugs I recommend. Bosch FR8DPP33+ Super OE Style Spark Plug – Pack of 1OE Replacements. Can’t go wrong with these spark plugs. Your going to need 16 Mercedes spark plugs 2 per cylinder.

Thanks for checking out my post. Mercedes Spark Plugs

How To: Replace Mercedes Spark Plugs and Wires.

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